Pull elastic to adjust the size of the openings. If the pants are made of a heavy fabric such as brocade or glitter dot, it may be better to use a drawstring than elastic for the top edge.
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This is your belt line. Now measure from this line to the floor. This is your pants length, or skirt length, for costume purposes leaving an inch 2. Now measure the largest part of your hip, probably several inches lower. This is your hip measurement. Measure the largest part of your thigh for thigh measurement. Sit on a chair and measure from the beltline to chair. Add an inch 2. This is your crotch depth. For classic harem pants, add 6 to 12 inches 16 to 32 cm to hip and thigh measurements for the width - depending on how loose you want pants.
For slim harem pants, add inches cm to hip and thigh measurement. Remember that the pattern is one-half of belt line at top, but a full leg. Use diagram to adjust your rectangle and draw pattern. Note that the belt line is curved one inch 2.
Remember when measuring that an inch and a half 4 cm is allowed at the top for one-inch 2. Leave small opening for elastic. Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread elastic through casings, to body measurements, pin the elastic shut, then try on the pants.
Pull elastic to adjust the size of the openings. Elastic should be snug but not uncomfortably tight. Pants should blouse slightly at ankle, but not enough to touch floor. If pants seem too long or beltline seems too high, pick out the stitching and trim edge, then repeat. The "Indian" style pants are made the same except that thay are cut slimmer, and tapered with darts from the knee down to make an ankle opening just big enough to fit your foot through.
Allow an extra inch of width. Cut pattern along side line. Turn under this edge and finish nicely, then cover this edge with trim or decoration.
Sew the side front and back together at top inch or two and bottom inch or two. Connect the remainder of slit every few inches as desired, a half-inch to two inches apart, with ribbon, trim, or strands of beads.
Experiment until you achieve a pleasing look. If using elastic instead of a drawstring for the top edge, I strongly recommend using the non-roll type of elastic. It has ribs that opposite the direction o the stretch, as shown in the photo to the right, and is less likely than braid elastic to twist inside the casing when you are wearing the pants. For the ankle casings, braid elastic should be fine. Ankle elastic generally doesn't have the twisting problem that hip line elastic does.
If the pants are made of a heavy fabric such as brocade or glitter dot, it may be better to use a drawstring than elastic for the top edge. If the pants fabric is too heavy for the elastic to hold it up, the pants can fall down. A drawstring won't have this problem. When I insert my elastic or drawstring into the casing, I personally prefer to use a bodkin shown in the photo to the right instead of a safety pin. I find it easier to deal with.
Although safety pins certainly get the job done, I find that the process goes more quickly with a bodkin. Other articles on this web site related to use of harem pants in belly dance costuming include:. She's also an artist Maryland Institute of Art and perfected her sewing techniques apprenticed to various designers, freelancing for small theaters, restyling vintage garments, and altering wedding gowns.
Dina fell in love with belly dancing costumes upon her very first lesson. Now the pleasure of wearing her own designs, and seeing others wear them, offers as much pleasure as dancing. She's become expert as well in altering those troublesome ready-made Egyptian costumes, and modifying designs to flatter individual figures. She holds workshops in Seattle to teach design and construction of cabaret costumes, and analysis of figure characteristics. She will also give private lessons, or resize or repair a secondhand costume.
She's thus earned her Costume Goddess title. Dina has published six books of her own on belly dance costuming as well as writing nearly all the costuming section for The Belly Dance Book. For reviews here on Shira. To view a photo gallery featuring pictures of Dina, costumes she has designed, and her friends, either click on the choices below or visit her web site:. The contents of this page are copyrighted by Dina Lydia. Unauthorized duplication is forbidden.
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